Paris – so where do you start? This is about the only place where we usually choose not to research restaurants, ask for recommendations, or check up ahead, unless we expressly want something totally out of the ordinary. We know our quartiers well and know in general what to look for, and are therefore happy just wondering around and trying out a place that catches our attention.

This impromptu attitude to dining, or as the French themselves call it à l’improviste, provides that little added excitement of not really knowing what to expect, as well as allowing one the freedom of deciding on the spot rather than being tied down to previous commitments and reservations.

We have very rarely had a bad meal, usually end up having very good meals in most places and have even landed a couple of stunners, in spite of this seemingly haphazard manner. The vast number of restaurants in most central areas, our intricate knowledge of Paris, as well a good nose to suss out the good from the not so good, usually pays off handsomely. So in reality there is some sense to our madness.

Our first meal in Paris during this trip was an excellent example of this method. A rather long walk in the centre starting off in Saint Germain des Prés, through Place Saint Michel, to Notre Dame, the Hôtel de Ville, Rue de Rivoli, past the Louvre and into the Jardins de Tuileries, was starting to take its toll on our weary legs, as was the freezing cold wind on our exposed faces. So we decided to have a short rest and a warm drink.

I knew that there wouldn’t be anywhere to go in Place de la Concorde or the bottom end of the Champs Élysées, so we had to make do with one of the kiosks cum bistros right in the gardens themselves. As we entered we were instantly hit by a mouthwatering aroma of food, which made our stomachs rumble and which we simply couldn’t resist. So we decided to have a quick snack while we were there. Now keep in mind that this is a kiosk serving snacks and has no pretension of being anything else but that.

A quick look at the very basic and limited menu revealed that besides the obligatory baguettes and the croques, they also served tartare de beouf and steak frites. Two of the top Parisian favourites which also happen to be two of ours. So that is exactly what we took – two tartares and one steak frites. An unlikely choice you might think in a kiosk, but both dishes were lovely. The tartare steaks were expertly prepared with excellent quality meat chopped up to perfection and served with the habitual raw egg on top and sided by chopped shallots, gherkins and capers – pure bliss. And in case anyone here is thinking that it is rather hard to get raw meat wrong, I would immediately point out that this most definitely is not the case. The quality of the meat and above all the way it is chopped up and never minced, both make a very big difference indeed. As does the choice and quality of the accompanying items.

The cooked steak was succulent, tasty and tender and having requested it rare – in expected French fashion, it was anything but over cooked, even a bit under, which is exactly how we like it. The lot was washed down with a cheap and cheerful Merlot du Pays d’Oc. And that was it – just hit the spot.

This is the Paris we love. Not that there are several truly outstanding top restaurants which may be carefully researched, planned beforehand and booked well in advance. Such top eateries exist in all major cities around the world and sometimes in small towns and even remoter places. These are what I would call “destination restaurants”, as the establishment would be a destination in its own right. We love Paris because of the very high average level of quality you can expect wherever you eat, as well as the sheer impressive number of restaurants everywhere, which all makes eating well so easy and inevitable.