IL-MITHNA, Mellieha

I had dined here a very long time ago and was again enticed to do so after hearing many good reports and recommendations. So there were six of us dining and we all decided to give it a go.

The place itself is a lovely historical building with beautiful stonework and cleverly appointed soft indirect lighting. They also have a tiny, yet existing, drinks area, something I think every good restaurant should have. It is lovely to be given a choice of having a drink in a separate bar area before, and sometimes even after, you dine, if you so wish. And if anyone is a bit on the weak side from a fine dining point of view, please be informed that this is actually one of the main requirements when rating top establishments, so I am not raving about some subjective quirk here at all.

We were served throughout by a friendly and efficient lad who was convivial and talented. However for a restaurant aspiring to be amongst one of the top dining establishments in this part of Malta, I would suggest that at least two members of staff be present, one acting as maitre d’ and an assistant. It was a very quiet night, but as they say the show must go on. It adds poise and class to a place even if service remains essentially the same, in the same way that say meeting the chef or the owner adds value to a dining experience, all of which were sadly missing in this experience.

We selected both a red and a white from the decent wine list, consisting of a strongly aromatic French riesling and a Guigal Cote du Rhone, presenting its typical luscious, velvety and smooth, yet full bodied characteristics.

For starters we had foie gras mousse, which was beautifully presented on a slate with fascinating patterns and colours. It was perhaps minuscule and not extraordinary in taste, but it looked very pleasant to the eye. Mousse de foie gras is always so much less tasty than a bloc, especially when mixed with dairy as this one was.

There was a cannelloni with ricotta and truffle, which was also pleasant, as well as a brie & pickled onions millefogli which was equally agreeable. And a chestnut soup which was well enjoyed.

For mains we had a ribeye steak which was requested medium to well, but was slightly overcooked. Also a hanger steak which is not a common feature in Malta, unlike many other countries such as France. It is a very tender yet tasty cut and this one was no exception, although also perhaps ever so slightly overcooked.

There were also two portions of stewed rabbit which were very much enjoyed. Also two duck breasts which were served pink, as requested, and which were of undeniably good quality and well prepared.

All of the mains were too copious and unnecessarily large. Similarly they were accompanied with large portions of potatoes and slightly smaller ones of vegetables. One couldn’t help concluding that in spite of the fine aspirations of this restaurant, they are still clenching onto old Maltese values of overcooked meat and oversized portions.

We enjoyed the food and found little fault, but a certain added finesse certainly wouldn’t go amiss.

Our kind server was also gracious enough to offer us drinks on the house, which would be unheard of asking for or insisting upon in today’s culinary world, but even more unheard of to refuse