Monthly Archives: January 2016

BUDDHAMANN, St. Julians – revisited

We had visited this unique restaurant seven months ago and have been wanting to return even since. So we finally made it after much anticipation.

The ambiance is a pleasant mix of soft, chic and contemporary understated décor, with unimpeded views of the outside surroundings.

We received a very warm welcome by much of the staff, whom we know extremely well from their previous posts at Tarragon Restaurant, as well as the main culprit himself, Marvin Gauci.

This restaurant is unique in Malta because to my knowledge at least, it is the only one offering fusion dishes combining Asian and oriental cuisine along with European. The concept is entirely based on combining delicacies and cooking styles from the far East, with those from closer to home. The fascinatingly eclectic menu features oysters, foie gras, caviar, sushi, tandoori and so much more, all presented in a weird and wonderful melange of delicious top ingredients and seemingly unlikely combinations, with a couple of molecular spherifications thrown in for good measure.

This is therefore definitely not the place you go to for “the quick Chinese”. Nor for a traditional ‘safe’ meal, where you know exactly what to expect. Au contraire, you go to Buddhamann to sample the unique and the exciting, to discover where such an intriguing culinary journey can take you. So it is most certainly aimed not at the traditionalist but at the openminded foodie.

Most luckily it is run by one of the most convivial, enthusiastic, hands-on and talkative chef-restaurateurs on this side of the galaxy. I would really hate to land in this sort of place only to be faced by a blank-faced server, notepad in hand, waiting nervously for our order. So needless to say, Marvin not only gave us endless info and background on exactly what they are trying to do here, with many added intricacies and details to spare, but as we heard him do with most other tables, he also very aptly and conveniently took matters in hand and went ahead to prepare for us a well selected array of dishes – sheer bliss.

I always love it when this is done in a restaurant. Who better than the chef patron himself to guide you straight to the best delicacies, rather than you picking at menu names haphazardly.

So here goes!

Oysters in a Japanese ponzu sauce chilled with liquid nitrogen at our table for that added effect. Verdict – delicious.

Mai Tai Spherifications, as in mai tai the cocktain and spherification in molecular gastronomy. Verdict – absolutely divine.

Salmon Sashimi marinated in miso, on a salmon skin cracker and lime pear. Verdict – very interesting delicate blend of heavenly flavours.

Tuna Tartar and Guacamole in kimchi sauce and smoked wakame seaweed jelly. Verdict – this was about the only one dish which we did not wow about. In our own personal opinion, the kimchi denatures the tuna a bit too much and gives it a rather aggressive taste. But this is a purely subjective comment and many would certainly love this dish too.

Duck & Foie Gras Wontons. Verdict – Sublime, succulent and scrumptious all round.

Boneless Quail Tandoori with a pomegranate, ginger and red currant sauce. Verdict – gimme more!

Foie Gras Futomaki Sushi, yes standard sushi with foie gras. Verdict – if like us you love foie gras, then this dish is simply to die for! Probably my top favourite dish of the meal.

Dragon Fish, which is here just a fancy name for seabass, with an asian vinaigrette, pinenuts and basil. Verdict – Fusion at its best. I loved the way such a relatively common Mediterranean fish was both presented and prepared and it also tasted lovely.

Chicken Tandoori rubbed in turmeric and nutmeg and served with baby crunchy potatoes and a fresh herb sauce. Verdict – extremely tasty and enjoyable.

Tandoori Baked Chilli & Onion Naan Bread. Verdict – this looked somewhat like slices of pizza and were uncontrollably moreish.

Basmati Rice. Verdict – nice, can’t-go-wrong good quality rice.

Pilau Rice – even nicer and tastier, can’t-go-wrong good quality rice.

Desserts? You must be joking!! We nearly died and genuinely had problems even standing up after this banquet. And to make it crystal clear, the portions here while obviously not being enormous, are neither minuscule, and even to a certain extent on the generous side for this type of restaurant. So just in case you were wondering, I would honestly say that the above can easily feed four!

We just got carried away in our degustationing frenzy and simply didn’t want it to stop. Suffice to say however that in spite of their absolute goodness, we left half of the fish and most of the chicken in the end. Just how much can you continue forcefeeding yourself, no matter how much you are enjoying it.

As for wine we had a lovely Vouvray, which is an acidic, yet still relatively soft and floral white wine from the Touraine region of the Loire Valley.

After coffees and liqueurs, graciously offered by the house, we had one last chat with the man of the hour. Things had progressed fantastically since our last visit, and we found that a lot of finesse and perfection has been added, to offer a truly spectacular gastronomic experience.

To close, I must congratulate Marvin on his endless talent to offer spectacular and original cuisine in all of his three restaurants, which incidentally is always brimming with powerful tastes. Many other ambitious and aspiring establishments tend to offer seemingly similar creations, only to lack a bit of oomf, remaining too subtle and delicate in their dishes. I want the first bite of any dish to light up mini fireworks in my mouth, as they all did here.

But Marvin goes much further than producing top level cuisine. He also manages to combine this with plush décor, great and talented staff – which they certainly were here without exception, and an overall super classy memorable all-round outing, easily matching top restaurants in any European city.

CHOGM AND CHIPS

Queen Elisabeth, Prince Philip, Prince Charles and Camilla recently visited Malta on the occasion of CHOGM. British royalty in all its pomp and ceremony. The peak of sophistication, polish and refinement. Everything about them exudes class and poise, their posture, their etiquette, their manner of speaking.

Everything British at its very best. Then there’s Bugibba.

I am not at all classist. I pride myself in getting on perfectly with everyone, no matter their background and even have close friends of all types. However I am not a great fan of ignorance and stupidity. The unenlightened and the uncouth, the uncivil and the crass, are for me at least, a waste of time and space. This is not a matter of class, you can come from very humble origins and still be bright, interesting and mannered and behave like a human being.

Another common notion I do not associate myself with is patriotism. I am diametrically opposed to it in every way, being a citoyen du monde through and through.

So I feel that I really look at individuals for what they are – some are despicable morons, and some are not, entirely irrespective of class, nationality, race or creed.

So I find myself doing some work in a garage in Qawra, what is supposedly the slightly better neighbour of Bugibba. The immediate area of this garage however, would really benefit a lot if a massive bomb was dropped on it and raised the entire area to the ground. The scruffiness is mindblowing, with every building being totally incongruous with all the others, air conditioning compressors everywhere, the majority of doors being garages at different levels, broken, uneven pavements, weeds growing everywhere – in summary, a total disgusting mess reminiscent of a third world country slum, and that’s if you’re not really looking.

So what, you might be asking, have British royalty, classism, patriotism and the Bugibba/Qawra area have in common. Well the answer is – not much really, outside of this narrative, where they all come together to take centre stage.

As mentioned, we have all sorts of friends, including a fair share of English nationals living in Malta. Even our English friends are quite varied, however I must admit that in their majority they happen to be pretty smart and elegant individuals, definitely falling on the posh side of things.

It is very obvious that many of them have an evidently patronising attitude towards Malta and the Maltese in general and many of their comments and remarks are steeped in discriminatory innuendo. You can just feel their old colonial ways whereby the British are supposed to be superior and dominate over others.

As I am not at all patriotic, I do not take offence, however this in no manner means that I do not at times find them annoying, in their shortsighted view of things. I try to explain to them that as in any nation, there are Maltese and Maltese, the clever and the dull, the efficient and the lazy, but usually to no avail. In there minds the British are miles ahead, and so indisputably superior to the Maltese in every way.

Perhaps they too should take a quick trip to Qawra and attempt to have a quick snack in any of the local establishments and judge for themselves the level of many of their compatriots.

This was my fate these last few days. Being confined in a dark, cold garage with no water or electricity for several hours, it is to be expected that after some time we would crave for a hot drink and a bite to eat. So without wanting to wander far afield, at lunchtime we popped into a couple of the countless nondescript establishments which litter the streets every few metres from each other.

And if they looked totally devoid of taste and style from the outside, when we walked in it only got significantly worse. Their shabbiness hits you in the face the moment you walk in, as it becomes immediately evident that they were whipped up in the most ramshackle of ways and that every expense was spared in their every aspect.

Every one we tried out was run by English people and frequented by English people, who were in their totality, very unroyalike in poise, fashion and style and especially not in their manner of speech.

In every occasion we were welcomed with long stern and unfriendly faces, a far cry from the notion of English manners, so much overstated by our English friends, especially when perhaps rightly putting down Maltese customer care. This was the same, but five times worse.

Every time we asked for coffee we were snapped at that we could only have instant, because naturally fancy snobbish stuff like an espresso or a capuccino are only for loathsome, snobbish Maltese individuals. It was obvious that the only reason we were clearly warned, was because this was exactly what they were thinking.

The menus were exclusively anything fried under the sun, invariably accompanied by sausages, beans, fried eggs and chips. Yes it is so extraordinary, but us admittedly crap eating Maltese, can only be beaten by the even bigger crap eating British. The menus looked like Butlins canteen in the 1960’s, absolutely nothing at all has evolved.

Even the bottles in the bars and the condiments on the tables, were in their vast majority unheard of brands. A Gordons gin and a Heinz ketchup is far to expensive for these English upper crust.

In one crumby joint, reeking of cheap burnt oil, we had four bog standard sausage sandwiches and four instant coffees for €14, when having the same in a humble Maltese workers’ bar, inclusive of infinitely better and more wholesome sandwiches with ten times the ingredients, would have cost half the price.

We were served by an obese, grubby young English girl, bordering on the rude and had to listen to two drunk Englishmen belching every couple of minutes, as they downed their morning beers, wearing only a flimsy tee-shirt and shorts, in spite of it being only 10 degrees outside. Do these people even own clothes?

The day after, following our utter disgust at this joint, we tried another one, seemingly more elaborate from the outside. Sadly once inside, it was exactly the same story. The Northern sounding English woman with few teeth, first glared at us in a most unfriendly way, then gave us the stern warning that they didn’t do fancy coffee, then the disaster of a menu, which was nothing short of surreal. Not only were the contents just as horrendous, but these wise guys even charge more for their crappy sandwiches in the afternoon than they do I the morning!! Yes, I even had to take a photo of this because I am sure that nobody would ever believe me otherwise. Do you laugh or cry?

And their sandwiches are about the sorriest specimens I have every encountered. Not a sign of lettuce, or a slice of tomato, or a few chips on the side. Nope! Or should I say nawt, as per their harsh regional accent!

The place was a massive dump, their toilets were shocking and falling to bits, all doors were used as signposts for all sorts of messages and all staff was gruff and unwelcoming.

The place was rather busy with large and loud English people scoffing beans and chips in what could have been deemed as a mini freak show of sorts. They also came complete with a few screaming kids, a horrific incidence we so often associate with the Maltese.

Upon arrival I went to the bar to order our food and drinks. I waited patiently for my turn after two other British customers. When I placed my order, unlike my predecessors I was asked to pay immediately! For once I chose to shut it and play it cool, there are certain types you can tell just by looking at and hearing them speak that the chances of having a reasonable conversation with and making some sense, are about as slim as Prince Charles himself walking into this hellhole and ordering a chip butty.

Many might disagree, but for me all nationalities and races are the same. There are great people and idiots of all nationalities. But the next time any of our English friends put down the Maltese in any way, be it customer care, style, efficiency, professionalism, general personal development, smartness, anything… I will personally drag them by their posh colonial whiskers to meet their lesser counterparts who infest Bugibba like slimy cockroaches, and that includes Kora too. Yes because they aren’t even capable of pronouncing the word Qawra, then they correct our ‘th’.

Perhaps CHOGM or no CHOGM next time the royals come to Malta they should spend a weekend at the Fish & Chips Hotel in one of the ghastly backstreets of lovely Kora.

IL-MITHNA, Mellieha

I had dined here a very long time ago and was again enticed to do so after hearing many good reports and recommendations. So there were six of us dining and we all decided to give it a go.

The place itself is a lovely historical building with beautiful stonework and cleverly appointed soft indirect lighting. They also have a tiny, yet existing, drinks area, something I think every good restaurant should have. It is lovely to be given a choice of having a drink in a separate bar area before, and sometimes even after, you dine, if you so wish. And if anyone is a bit on the weak side from a fine dining point of view, please be informed that this is actually one of the main requirements when rating top establishments, so I am not raving about some subjective quirk here at all.

We were served throughout by a friendly and efficient lad who was convivial and talented. However for a restaurant aspiring to be amongst one of the top dining establishments in this part of Malta, I would suggest that at least two members of staff be present, one acting as maitre d’ and an assistant. It was a very quiet night, but as they say the show must go on. It adds poise and class to a place even if service remains essentially the same, in the same way that say meeting the chef or the owner adds value to a dining experience, all of which were sadly missing in this experience.

We selected both a red and a white from the decent wine list, consisting of a strongly aromatic French riesling and a Guigal Cote du Rhone, presenting its typical luscious, velvety and smooth, yet full bodied characteristics.

For starters we had foie gras mousse, which was beautifully presented on a slate with fascinating patterns and colours. It was perhaps minuscule and not extraordinary in taste, but it looked very pleasant to the eye. Mousse de foie gras is always so much less tasty than a bloc, especially when mixed with dairy as this one was.

There was a cannelloni with ricotta and truffle, which was also pleasant, as well as a brie & pickled onions millefogli which was equally agreeable. And a chestnut soup which was well enjoyed.

For mains we had a ribeye steak which was requested medium to well, but was slightly overcooked. Also a hanger steak which is not a common feature in Malta, unlike many other countries such as France. It is a very tender yet tasty cut and this one was no exception, although also perhaps ever so slightly overcooked.

There were also two portions of stewed rabbit which were very much enjoyed. Also two duck breasts which were served pink, as requested, and which were of undeniably good quality and well prepared.

All of the mains were too copious and unnecessarily large. Similarly they were accompanied with large portions of potatoes and slightly smaller ones of vegetables. One couldn’t help concluding that in spite of the fine aspirations of this restaurant, they are still clenching onto old Maltese values of overcooked meat and oversized portions.

We enjoyed the food and found little fault, but a certain added finesse certainly wouldn’t go amiss.

Our kind server was also gracious enough to offer us drinks on the house, which would be unheard of asking for or insisting upon in today’s culinary world, but even more unheard of to refuse

LA CUCINA DEL SOLE, Tigne Point, Sliema

This is a stylish, multi purpose establishment in Tigne Point which appeals to small and large tables alike. Offering fantastic views of Valletta across the Harbour, it has both indoor and outdoor dining areas.

It came with several strong recommendations when we were looking for a venue to host a relatively large birthday party for a relatively petite yet prized friend of ours who can be rather hard to please.

We were a large table of 15 persons and my first comment will be that throughout the few weeks prior to the dinner, I was communicating constantly with the restaurant with frequent changes and was always perfectly handled with nothing but full cooperation. Already at booking stage, especially in such cases of groups with special requirements, consisting of cakes and other specifications, one can already clearly gauge the professionalism of the venue and their desire to please. So absolutely no qualms from this point of view.

We also hassled them a bit with the table, adding a couple of seats, then removing them, then adding them again, but no bad vibes whatsoever were ever sensed.

It was also appreciated that with 15 of us there, we were told that ordering from their normal a la carte menu there and then would not be a problem, which of course we did. Their menu, although not fantastically extensive, is very varied.

So as was to be expected, a large variety of dishes were ordered, both as starters and main courses.

The service throughout was satisfactory and of a very acceptable standard, the food was not served presto, but neither was it annoyingly late, so all in all proceedings were in order.

I also enjoyed the comfortable and intimate sofa on one side of the table which proved to add much joy and comfort throughout the meal, as well as ample photo opportunities, much to the accompanying girls’ delight.

Overall, there were no complaints about the food and every dish was acceptable, however the general consensus seemed to be that it was neither of an impressive standard. I would not go as far as saying that the food was disappointing, but it was not inspiring or spectacular either.

From a pricing point of view I would also say that both food and notably wine and drinks could easily be priced a bit lower, as they are currently at the very top acceptable limit.

We were there until late, we made a nuisance of ourselves and had many a drink for the road, however again the staff were most obliging. With a tiny bit of effort to improve the food to a slightly higher standard, as well as a minimal lower revision of pricing, this could prove to be an awesome groups function establishment.

We still had a great time and after a long and complicated bill paying exercise, we took the birthday girl to party elsewhere where she endeavoured to realise the rude expletives we had inscribed on her cake, which she aptly blowed with a beaming smile.

JANUARY BLUES

I must start off by apologising to my readers for such a long absence, sorry but I was drunk!

Now that we got that out of the way, we can focus on today’s subject matter – drinking!

Because if there is a period throughout the year when this is most relevant, it is obviously during the festive season, which has just come to an end, providing us with the perfect opportunity to look back and come to some valid conclusions on the matter.

My first conclusion is that drinking is at least as fun, relaxing and liberating to the mind and to the spirit, as it is harmful to the body. So it’s a big positive to both the mind and the spirit and only bad for the body, making it a two against one situation, in favour of drinking. Stated otherwise, there are twice as many reasons to drink than not to drink.

Similarly, we all know that the more we drink the more likely that we will suffer from a bad hangover the day after, but ironically the more we drink, the more we don’t care about it.

Most of us do not require any lessons or advice on when, what or how to drink, but it’s always nice to share a few hints and ideas.

My biggest problem with the Festive Season is that first we start off organising a couple of do’s at the very beginning of December, when people are still not too busy, then of course comes the onslaught of both work related and personal functions, and to top it all up, my wife being Russian, they celebrate their Christmas and New Year two weeks after we do. So in our home we don’t close the celebrations until the third week of January, by which time my liver is screaming stop!

So our season lasts around 7 weeks and as it is best not to shock the system, but to gradually gain momentum and then to very slowly taper off, we usually get going in early November and seem to keep it up until around Easter time. So that’s taken care of our partying and drinking over Autumn, Winter and Spring, next time we’ll talk about the Summer!

It always amazes me that when in the thick of it, in the last two weeks of December, sometimes there are so many occasions that it all sort of blends in. The other day I was at a reception of sorts, chatting away with an old business acquaintance about the price of property, when he asked me how much I was paying for a large garage which I rent. Just as I was about to reply, he was suddenly pulled away by someone else and never returned. Only about five days later while at a luncheon party, he happened to be sitting just across the table from me, and as soon as I noticed him there, without as much as a hello or any other greeting, I instinctively told him “€250 a month”, to which he simply replied “oh that doesn’t sound too bad to me”, and we just snapped back into the same convo like the previous five days had never elapsed.

Similarly, when meeting people at all these do’s and they start off by saying “Oh hi there again” you’re never quite sure whether you last met them the week before or perhaps last year!

So some time in the beginning of December I just wear my standard smile, I put on my glazed look, arm myself with a battery of vague meaningless pleasantries and I head straight for the bar.

And talking of bars, yes! I am very much one of those who always heads straight for the bar, or if there isn’t one in sight, to the location where the staff come out with the drinks, and position myself strategically next to it for the entire duration of the function. I mean why on earth wouldn’t I do this? The chitchat is the same everywhere, but the drinks certainly ain’t! I have been at many an event where the thirsty crown vastly outweighed the relative presence of staff and whereby the drinks rarely made it to the outer reaches of the parched guests, beyond a few metres radius of the action.

So upon arrival I observe the main flow and sources of drinks and stick my cumbersome self right in the middle of it all for good measure. But that is only the beginning of my devious strategy. I then invariably select a friendly server, who will be assigned the dubious role of personal assistant. So I look around and find one with a noticeably pleasant disposition, craftily look at the name tag and say “Ara Joseph hawn. Always lovely to encounter you at these parties, cause I know that you’ll look after me well. I’ll have the usual thanks”. The trick is to say it with full conviction, like you fully and totally mean it.

Remember that these guys see thousands of people and it is commonplace for guests to remember them but virtually impossible for them to remember guests. So just stand there and wait for the inevitable question. They will usually feign a false happy hello nice to see you again, and then tell you “please remind me what you usually drink again?”. So you inform them of your select tipple for the day with an added jokingly “Now don’t go forgetting that again will you tsk tsk”, which not only has them at your attention and service for the duration of the reception, but also feeling a little bit guilty and ensuring that they do not forget and that you are kept happy all the time.

A furtive glance at them and a quick wink is then all it takes to have them rushing every time to bring you your next drink. If at any time you feel that the spell is starting to wear out, then throw in an occasional stunner, such as “And how is you wife now, feeling better I hope”. This really messes up their brains and gets them scrambling to help you in any way possible, thinking that you must be an even closer acquaintance than they first imagined.

And if you’re thinking, what if he turns round to you and says that he doesn’t have a wife, then please bear in mind that I had a good look at his finger first…

Hey life is all about planning and organisation and these little tricks are what turn your life into a happy and comfortable one. In the end I am in no way disrespecting them, au contraire I am one of the few who gives them the most attention and who shares a quip with them now and again – a very symbiotic co-existence I think.

All of this also ensures that you are always well topped up in merriment and cheer. Everyone applauds your positive attitude and sunny disposition. Little do they know that it is mainly based on you being permanently and happily tipsy.

Then of course there are all the assorted personal engagements with family and friends, many of which require an even heftier dose of drink, not only to be merry but also to plainly ignore the comments which might be tipped with a bit of venom. You know the style, the jealous cousin, the envious friend, the sibling grinding the same old axe for 40 years, the social climber taking notes of all your contacts, the haughty relation finding ways to put you down, the acquaintance who’s every sentence must contain the word “villa”, “luxury car” and “holiday”.

Basically all the verbal crap we have to listen to, which isn’t really intended for others to consume, but only for themselves to masturbate their own fragile egos. And in these cases, without even the slightest of doubts, the very best reaction is simply none at all. Just wear that constant false smile, make a random nod every couple of minutes and keep those drinks coming.

Conversation is perhaps the most intriguing and fun part of it all, besides for the drink. I love playing games and messing with people’s minds and usually appoint one or several partners in crime to share the fun with. There are endless games you can play, such as picking on the most likely victims.

One game I thoroughly enjoy when there are the compulsive braggers around, is to make a bet with my buddies on how many times I can get them to mention a particular word such as “travel” for example. You know the type, those whose self-perceived status revolves around them repeating ad nauseam on how often they travel. So rather than having to very reluctantly endure this all evening, you turn it into a fun game. Set yourself an ambitious target and every time they seem to let go a bit, throw in a devious question such as “so what do you enjoy doing most in your life?” or “don’t you feel that Malta is too small” and off they go again relating yet again the expected, while you give a wink to your buddies and clock in the score.

You can also, to some extent, inverse roles with the jealous cousins. First let them spit out their poisonous remarks and snide comments, loaded with meanings of hate. Then when they least expect it, just hurl in an atom bomb in the form of “Oh did we tell you that we just bought a lovely apartment in Central London, just to have somewhere to stay when we’re there?”, or “We just booked a first class cabin on a round the world cruise, it did cost us over €50,000 but hey that’s what money is for”. Then just sit back and watch them change colour, as they sit there smouldering, scheming and searching desperately for their next nasty comment.

For in the end each party must be enjoyed in itself and should be seen as an end and not a means. Whatever you say and whatever you do will rarely change anything or anyone in any way. The haters will still hate and the envious will remain. So just pour yourself another one and have a great time at their expense.

Cheers!