Category Archives: RESTAURANT BLOG

This is my restaurant reviews blog, which focuses on dining and wining and related matters.

Restaurants in Malta is an entertaining, tongue-in-cheek, yet informative review space for dining establishments and related topics in Malta and abroad.

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BUDDHAMANN, St. Julians – revisited

We had visited this unique restaurant seven months ago and have been wanting to return even since. So we finally made it after much anticipation.

The ambiance is a pleasant mix of soft, chic and contemporary understated décor, with unimpeded views of the outside surroundings.

We received a very warm welcome by much of the staff, whom we know extremely well from their previous posts at Tarragon Restaurant, as well as the main culprit himself, Marvin Gauci.

This restaurant is unique in Malta because to my knowledge at least, it is the only one offering fusion dishes combining Asian and oriental cuisine along with European. The concept is entirely based on combining delicacies and cooking styles from the far East, with those from closer to home. The fascinatingly eclectic menu features oysters, foie gras, caviar, sushi, tandoori and so much more, all presented in a weird and wonderful melange of delicious top ingredients and seemingly unlikely combinations, with a couple of molecular spherifications thrown in for good measure.

This is therefore definitely not the place you go to for “the quick Chinese”. Nor for a traditional ‘safe’ meal, where you know exactly what to expect. Au contraire, you go to Buddhamann to sample the unique and the exciting, to discover where such an intriguing culinary journey can take you. So it is most certainly aimed not at the traditionalist but at the openminded foodie.

Most luckily it is run by one of the most convivial, enthusiastic, hands-on and talkative chef-restaurateurs on this side of the galaxy. I would really hate to land in this sort of place only to be faced by a blank-faced server, notepad in hand, waiting nervously for our order. So needless to say, Marvin not only gave us endless info and background on exactly what they are trying to do here, with many added intricacies and details to spare, but as we heard him do with most other tables, he also very aptly and conveniently took matters in hand and went ahead to prepare for us a well selected array of dishes – sheer bliss.

I always love it when this is done in a restaurant. Who better than the chef patron himself to guide you straight to the best delicacies, rather than you picking at menu names haphazardly.

So here goes!

Oysters in a Japanese ponzu sauce chilled with liquid nitrogen at our table for that added effect. Verdict – delicious.

Mai Tai Spherifications, as in mai tai the cocktain and spherification in molecular gastronomy. Verdict – absolutely divine.

Salmon Sashimi marinated in miso, on a salmon skin cracker and lime pear. Verdict – very interesting delicate blend of heavenly flavours.

Tuna Tartar and Guacamole in kimchi sauce and smoked wakame seaweed jelly. Verdict – this was about the only one dish which we did not wow about. In our own personal opinion, the kimchi denatures the tuna a bit too much and gives it a rather aggressive taste. But this is a purely subjective comment and many would certainly love this dish too.

Duck & Foie Gras Wontons. Verdict – Sublime, succulent and scrumptious all round.

Boneless Quail Tandoori with a pomegranate, ginger and red currant sauce. Verdict – gimme more!

Foie Gras Futomaki Sushi, yes standard sushi with foie gras. Verdict – if like us you love foie gras, then this dish is simply to die for! Probably my top favourite dish of the meal.

Dragon Fish, which is here just a fancy name for seabass, with an asian vinaigrette, pinenuts and basil. Verdict – Fusion at its best. I loved the way such a relatively common Mediterranean fish was both presented and prepared and it also tasted lovely.

Chicken Tandoori rubbed in turmeric and nutmeg and served with baby crunchy potatoes and a fresh herb sauce. Verdict – extremely tasty and enjoyable.

Tandoori Baked Chilli & Onion Naan Bread. Verdict – this looked somewhat like slices of pizza and were uncontrollably moreish.

Basmati Rice. Verdict – nice, can’t-go-wrong good quality rice.

Pilau Rice – even nicer and tastier, can’t-go-wrong good quality rice.

Desserts? You must be joking!! We nearly died and genuinely had problems even standing up after this banquet. And to make it crystal clear, the portions here while obviously not being enormous, are neither minuscule, and even to a certain extent on the generous side for this type of restaurant. So just in case you were wondering, I would honestly say that the above can easily feed four!

We just got carried away in our degustationing frenzy and simply didn’t want it to stop. Suffice to say however that in spite of their absolute goodness, we left half of the fish and most of the chicken in the end. Just how much can you continue forcefeeding yourself, no matter how much you are enjoying it.

As for wine we had a lovely Vouvray, which is an acidic, yet still relatively soft and floral white wine from the Touraine region of the Loire Valley.

After coffees and liqueurs, graciously offered by the house, we had one last chat with the man of the hour. Things had progressed fantastically since our last visit, and we found that a lot of finesse and perfection has been added, to offer a truly spectacular gastronomic experience.

To close, I must congratulate Marvin on his endless talent to offer spectacular and original cuisine in all of his three restaurants, which incidentally is always brimming with powerful tastes. Many other ambitious and aspiring establishments tend to offer seemingly similar creations, only to lack a bit of oomf, remaining too subtle and delicate in their dishes. I want the first bite of any dish to light up mini fireworks in my mouth, as they all did here.

But Marvin goes much further than producing top level cuisine. He also manages to combine this with plush décor, great and talented staff – which they certainly were here without exception, and an overall super classy memorable all-round outing, easily matching top restaurants in any European city.

IL-MITHNA, Mellieha

I had dined here a very long time ago and was again enticed to do so after hearing many good reports and recommendations. So there were six of us dining and we all decided to give it a go.

The place itself is a lovely historical building with beautiful stonework and cleverly appointed soft indirect lighting. They also have a tiny, yet existing, drinks area, something I think every good restaurant should have. It is lovely to be given a choice of having a drink in a separate bar area before, and sometimes even after, you dine, if you so wish. And if anyone is a bit on the weak side from a fine dining point of view, please be informed that this is actually one of the main requirements when rating top establishments, so I am not raving about some subjective quirk here at all.

We were served throughout by a friendly and efficient lad who was convivial and talented. However for a restaurant aspiring to be amongst one of the top dining establishments in this part of Malta, I would suggest that at least two members of staff be present, one acting as maitre d’ and an assistant. It was a very quiet night, but as they say the show must go on. It adds poise and class to a place even if service remains essentially the same, in the same way that say meeting the chef or the owner adds value to a dining experience, all of which were sadly missing in this experience.

We selected both a red and a white from the decent wine list, consisting of a strongly aromatic French riesling and a Guigal Cote du Rhone, presenting its typical luscious, velvety and smooth, yet full bodied characteristics.

For starters we had foie gras mousse, which was beautifully presented on a slate with fascinating patterns and colours. It was perhaps minuscule and not extraordinary in taste, but it looked very pleasant to the eye. Mousse de foie gras is always so much less tasty than a bloc, especially when mixed with dairy as this one was.

There was a cannelloni with ricotta and truffle, which was also pleasant, as well as a brie & pickled onions millefogli which was equally agreeable. And a chestnut soup which was well enjoyed.

For mains we had a ribeye steak which was requested medium to well, but was slightly overcooked. Also a hanger steak which is not a common feature in Malta, unlike many other countries such as France. It is a very tender yet tasty cut and this one was no exception, although also perhaps ever so slightly overcooked.

There were also two portions of stewed rabbit which were very much enjoyed. Also two duck breasts which were served pink, as requested, and which were of undeniably good quality and well prepared.

All of the mains were too copious and unnecessarily large. Similarly they were accompanied with large portions of potatoes and slightly smaller ones of vegetables. One couldn’t help concluding that in spite of the fine aspirations of this restaurant, they are still clenching onto old Maltese values of overcooked meat and oversized portions.

We enjoyed the food and found little fault, but a certain added finesse certainly wouldn’t go amiss.

Our kind server was also gracious enough to offer us drinks on the house, which would be unheard of asking for or insisting upon in today’s culinary world, but even more unheard of to refuse

LA CUCINA DEL SOLE, Tigne Point, Sliema

This is a stylish, multi purpose establishment in Tigne Point which appeals to small and large tables alike. Offering fantastic views of Valletta across the Harbour, it has both indoor and outdoor dining areas.

It came with several strong recommendations when we were looking for a venue to host a relatively large birthday party for a relatively petite yet prized friend of ours who can be rather hard to please.

We were a large table of 15 persons and my first comment will be that throughout the few weeks prior to the dinner, I was communicating constantly with the restaurant with frequent changes and was always perfectly handled with nothing but full cooperation. Already at booking stage, especially in such cases of groups with special requirements, consisting of cakes and other specifications, one can already clearly gauge the professionalism of the venue and their desire to please. So absolutely no qualms from this point of view.

We also hassled them a bit with the table, adding a couple of seats, then removing them, then adding them again, but no bad vibes whatsoever were ever sensed.

It was also appreciated that with 15 of us there, we were told that ordering from their normal a la carte menu there and then would not be a problem, which of course we did. Their menu, although not fantastically extensive, is very varied.

So as was to be expected, a large variety of dishes were ordered, both as starters and main courses.

The service throughout was satisfactory and of a very acceptable standard, the food was not served presto, but neither was it annoyingly late, so all in all proceedings were in order.

I also enjoyed the comfortable and intimate sofa on one side of the table which proved to add much joy and comfort throughout the meal, as well as ample photo opportunities, much to the accompanying girls’ delight.

Overall, there were no complaints about the food and every dish was acceptable, however the general consensus seemed to be that it was neither of an impressive standard. I would not go as far as saying that the food was disappointing, but it was not inspiring or spectacular either.

From a pricing point of view I would also say that both food and notably wine and drinks could easily be priced a bit lower, as they are currently at the very top acceptable limit.

We were there until late, we made a nuisance of ourselves and had many a drink for the road, however again the staff were most obliging. With a tiny bit of effort to improve the food to a slightly higher standard, as well as a minimal lower revision of pricing, this could prove to be an awesome groups function establishment.

We still had a great time and after a long and complicated bill paying exercise, we took the birthday girl to party elsewhere where she endeavoured to realise the rude expletives we had inscribed on her cake, which she aptly blowed with a beaming smile.

DECEMBER GROUP FUNCTIONS

Here is a quick rundown of a few of the more notable venues where I attended group meals and parties this December so far. More to come…

TERRONE, Marsaxlokk

I have had the occasion of dining there on an a la carte basis many a time and have really never been disappointed. This restaurant offers an original and refined take on Italian cuisine, miles above your average trattoria. This was a semi-set menu for about 25 of us, starting off with a selection of Italian style starters to share, then individually plated main courses which each one of us selected from a restricted choice. The quality of the food throughout was identical to our previous a la carte small table experiences, which in theory should always be the case, but in practice in many restaurants, often isn’t. Here it was exactly the same – exceptionally good. From a service point of view, our table was assigned two dedicated and talented servers who were with us all the time and served us to perfection. A large table needs attention and having its own dedicated staff is always a great idea.

CAFE JUBILEE, Gzira

We chose this place for its great pubbish ambiance and party atmosphere. There were nearly 20 of us there and we wanted a venue which would only reserve the space for us without pre-booking anything else. This was just a get-together where we wanted everyone to do their own thing and decide and pay for what they wanted to consume there and then. Not an easy task at all, as most places would tie you down to a minimum spend in one form or another, either in food or beverages items. But Cafe Jubililee were kind and obliging enough to accommodate our request, and it all turned out perfectly well. Everyone ordered their own drinks and most also selected a plate or two from their extensive menu, with everyone paying for themselves as we went along. The establishment was also kind enough to provide us with various complimentary nibbles out of their own accord. This is the perfect party place which also enjoys an excellent central location.

MUNCHIES, Mellieha Bay

Being a Sunday lunch, the place was absolutely packed and heaving with people. Although there were only 12 of us, I am still considering this as quite a large table. We went for normal a la carte and all had full meals from their regular and speciality menus. I personally chose both starter and main from the specials menu, consisting of chowder soup and duo of rabbit. Both were very good as were every single starter and main served at our table. In spite of them being absolutely full with all types of tables and functions, the service was impeccable. It is obvious that there is a very effective and multi-leveled hierarchy managing this place in a very professional manner. This has become one of our all time favourite eateries this Winter, and along with their outstanding location they will surely be seeing us many times over the coming months. Ian was also gracious enough to offer us coffees and drinks on the house! How can we not return?

BACCHUS, Mdina

What a marvellous facility this is for group functions. Firstly being in Mdina adds so much charm, although admittedly parking has become a nightmare and the greedy wardens are having a field day, not with those who park dangerously or obstructively, but with anyone who doesn’t abide perfectly to their illogical, ill-thought ground markings! The restaurant is housed within the actual bastion walls, giving it tremendous historic and aesthetic value. It also has enormous capacity and a number of varied areas which can be used differently by groups. This was a standing reception, followed by a pre-ordered set menu for about 50 guests. We started off with drinks and canapes outside, right on the bastions, which was lovely and refreshing, rather than spending all our time inside. We were then seated indoors for our set menu, which in my case at least, consisted of beef carpaccio and braised shin of beef. I thoroughly enjoyed both dishes, which were tasty and well prepared. Admittedly there was a small mixup with my requested diabetic desert, but this was immediately sorted, showing goodwill and care from all sides. Service was swift, efficient and friendly, in spite of the size of our group, as well as many other tables there at the time. The only pity was that very exceptionally Mario was not there, so I had to purchase my own drinks at the end, rather than bumming them off him!

CONCLUSION

I believe that the main point to take away from the above, is that a professionally run restaurant can always get it right, no matter how busy and how full they are and no matter how large your group. Only too often we make large concessions in our mind to excuse mediocre food and bad service, simply because the venue is busy. Quality should not suffer based on quantity, it is all a matter of proper organisation, as may be perfectly seen from the above experiences.

MUNCHIES, Ghadira Bay, Mellieha – revisited

I am so glad that we decided to visit Munchies in Ghadira again, firmly placing this establishment as a favourite stop when touring the North of the island.

Following a nice walk along L-Ahrax and Little Armier areas, we initially decided to stop for a quick drink, somewhere on the way back home. And as we drove down into Ghadira Bay, we saw Munchies and decided to stop there.

This is a much larger facility than one imagines. There is the main upstairs interior dining area, the large upper terrace, a long balcony on the front, the spacious patio downstairs, as well as another large interior dining area downstairs, and all are very appealing in their own way. You are therefore spoilt for choice.

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The place was heaving with people, which is rather extraordinary for this time of year, and good luck to them! They have certainly transformed this place into a great venue and the décor both upstairs and downstairs is very pleasant.

So we sat inside downstairs which is very attractive, and once we were there our quick drink turned into a bottle of Santa Digna Cabernet Suavignon, which was excellent and very full and fruity for a cabernet, I must say.

Then the smell and sight of food all around us compelled us to take a meat and cheese platter which was extremely impressive and generous in size. All the ingredients were of excellent quality and were thoroughly enjoyed. What a generous feast it turned out to be.

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I finished off with a casatella siciliana, which was also lovely and which I couldn’t help gobbling up.

And naturally then came the coffees and drinks…

So as expected, our quick drink ended up in pretty much in what could be called a meal in itself. And the great thing is that they also operate continuous service throughout the afternoon, as the kitchen doesn’t close.

What a splendid venue to keep in mind and how very flexible. They are open all day, you can go just for a drink, for a snack or a platter, or for a full meal. And above all the location is truly stunning, the food is excellent and so is the service.

Pretty hard to beat all round!

TRATTORIA AD1530 – Xara Palace, Mdina

We have often dined at this establishment in Mdina. It is a typical trattoria insofar as it offers an informal style menu and ambiance, yet being in Mdina and more so as part of the Xara Palace, it also withholds a certain level of class and refinement.

In the warmer months we thoroughly enjoy eating outside in the splendid square. On this particular occasion however, especially as we were there in the evening, we preferred being seated inside, although their outside area was well heated. I would immediately recommend that a simple spring be installed on their main door, enabling the staff to enter and exit without either having to turn back after their hands have been freed to close it, or as was more often the case, leaving it wide open, regaling us with chilly drafts most of the evening.

We started off with a bottle of French Domaine La Baume sauvignon blanc, which was very pleasant, especially for its relatively humble category. As expected with good French sauvignon, this was less aromatic and floral than most new world equivalents, however it presented lovely crisp, elegant, and fresh flavours instead.

There were three of us dining and for starters one of us had a lovely, largely assorted salad with gorgonzola, pears, Grana shavings, nuts and mixed greens, which was more than satisfactory.

While two of us had a beef carpaccio with all the trimmings and seasoning, which also proved to be delicious.

For mains we went for the fettucine with prawns, asparagus and spinach, in a prawn bisque, which was also very much enjoyed, especially as the various flavours and ingredients seemed to blend in and to compliment each other perfectly.

Also the ravioli with ricotta and artichokes, which were a slightly plainer dish, yet still of a very high standard. And a black Angus beef tenderloin, which was ordered blue and accompanied with salad, rather than vegetables.

When the steak arrived it was deemed to be slightly overcooked. It is true that in the centre it was still rather blue, however as admitted by the staff, it had effectively been sealed a little bit too much, rendering quite a large proportion of its edges well cooked. Additionally, they erroneously served vegetables instead of salad.

However, in keeping with the friendly and streamlined service throughout the meal, this was immediately remedied without fuss or bother. In no time whatsoever we were served another, perfectly blue steak, as well as a dish of salad, although we repeatedly insisted that this was not necessary, especially as the vegetables were beautifully prepared.

No problem is ever a problem when it is immediately solved, and this was one of those cases where good service and keen customer care more than saved the day.

I finished off with a nice apple pie, before we embarked on a wondrous walk around of Mdina by night.

PARANGA, St. Julians

Literally positioned partly over the water, it is hard to get a more unique spot than this. The view across St. Georges Bay may not to truly stunning, but it still never fails to impress, especially on such a glorious late Autumn day.
 
We were very pleased to be accepted for a very late lunch and were warmly welcomed and also advised that we could park our car in the Eden parking for free, by presenting them with our ticket before leaving. So we moved our double parked car into their car park and settled in right at the water’s edge, while enjoying the rather chic ambiance and slick service.
 
We started off with a bottle of South African Two Oceans blend of chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc, which sounded quite novel and interesting. However it did not turn out to be such a successful mix, as it tended to lose the lovely floral and aromatic flavours of the sauvignon, as well as the crisp and acidic characteristics of the chenin. So it wasn’t an excellent choice on my part.
 
We were not excessively hungry, so we decided on one dish. My wife requested a carpaccio, which was naturally listed under starters, and asked for this as a main course. However, must to our dismay, she was informed that it couldn’t be served in this manner.
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I have already commented on this before. I do understand that portioning and costings and presentation, as well as other related matters are of great importance, however restaurants unable to arrange for such a simple manipulation are doing something seriously wrong. It really is not rocket science to provide a larger sized portion of most dishes, unless it is say a whole fish, whereby providing one and a half fish makes no sense.
 
So I pushed her into having two different starter sized carpaccios, one octopus and prawn, and one veal. Both were excellent in taste, texture and presentation.
 
I went for the tagliatelli ai frutti di mare, which were only listed as one size and one price, however instantly I was asked whether I preferred a starter or a main course portion. I nearly choked on my wine when I was told this… talk about irony!
 
In any case the pasta was also of good quality, so certainly no complaints on the food.
 
The service was fine throughout – smart, efficient, prompt and technically correct, with service and clearing always conducted from the right hand side, which seems to be fast being forgotten these days. There were times when it did feel a bit superficial and not so genuine, in a five star hotel sort of way, but we can live with that.
 
What certainly was not in keeping with five star hotel standards, was when suddenly towards the end, we heard mad and enraged singing coming from the kitchen, which was not only audible, but even rather loud from where we sat, which was a great distance away. This wannabe Pavarotti must have been really singing at the very top of his voice, and I am not in any way exaggerating. I actually asked the waiter what on earth this racket was, but he only smiled and shrugged his shoulders and admitted that yes, it was the chef who often just loses it completely. Lovely, we thought, as we desperately hoped that this was the only way he manifested his apparent madness, and not in any way which might affect the food he cooked.
 
You might be thinking that there is little connection between the two. But when someone is so crass and negligent to scream at the top of his voice in the presence of customers, in what is meant to be a rather classy establishment, I think that my questioning does have some basis.
 
We went for coffees and drinks and I asked for a Hennessy and I enquired which malt whiskies they had in stock. I was advised that amongst others they had Macallan, which I particularly enjoy. So it was a Hennessy and a Macallan that we ordered.
 
However when the bill came over I noticed that we were charged €12 for a Macallan Amber, which is a superior special edition version, and €8 for a Hennessy VSOP Fine de Cognac. Therefore €20 for two drinks.
 
This is another common trick I have often mentioned here and have been pointing out that many restaurants are using to dupe customers into spending more. There have been instances when for certain valid reasons, such as being offered several on the house, I decided to take it in my stride, but frankly the frequency of this devious trick led me to put my foot down on this occasion. Enough is enough! Why should I pay €20 for two drinks when these were not what I ordered!
 
There is something within me that seems to shift instantly from laid back nice guy to pig-headed, iron-willed maniac, and if I think I have been cheated and decide to speak out, they could bring the tough guys, the cavalry, the Spanish Inquisition and more, but honestly nothing on this planet will make me budge. I remember some time ago on a similar cheated experience in Gozo, the establishment threatened on calling the police, and I said oh no no you won’t, I will! And I really proceeded in calling them and insisted that they come on site without delay. At which point the restaurant staff dropped their claims and called the police back themselves to inform then that the issue had been amicably solved.
 
In this case however, I am glad to say (for the establishment that is) that they had the foresight of immediately apologising and fumbling up various excuses. First I was told that they served us doubles by mistake, then they decided to take back the bill and to replace it with one with different descriptions and clearly stating Hennessy VS rather than VSOP.
 
Being an aficionado of alcoholic drinks, which sounds so much better than alcoholic, I can usually even recognise such variances, and I do believe that it was a Hennessy VSOP Fine de Cognac, which I know well. Also, although I am not very familiar with Macallan Amber, I am with the standard Macallan, and this one did seem a bit different. So in all probability we were served these superior versions, however very simply this was not what I ordered. End of story!
 
I very strongly suggest that everyone follow suit and act in the same manner as I have decided to do from now on. When ordering I will purposely not bother specifying that I request a standard spirit and let them serve me something better, if they wish to treat me. But believe me I’m not paying for anything more than that!
 
This practice makes so little sense that suffice to say there are bottles which cost literally thousands of Euros under certain brands and Hennessy is one of them. So am I supposed to receive a bill including a tot of cognac for say €500 only to be told – oh yes that is because we served you a Hennessy Beaute du Siecle, which would roughly equate to the price of one tot.
 
Incidentally I also found that €4.20 for a bottle of water, €12.50 for a starter carpaccio and €18.80 for a main course pasta was over the top.
 
So I paid up, half the original requested prices for the two drinks, admittedly still a bit disgruntled, handed them my parking ticket for validation, and we proceeded to the Eden car park for our car. However when I tried to exit, the barrier wouldn’t open. I gave my ticket to the security guy and also showed him my Paranga bill. He passed my ticket through the machine and told me that it hadn’t been validated at the restaurant and that I must have forgotten to hand it to the staff there for this purpose. I told that that I had, at which point he said he really couldn’t understand what had happened, as it clearly hadn’t been processed on their side.
 
I am not sure if it was simply because he was a nice guy, or because I also insisted on showing him my restaurant bill, or perhaps because he sensed my intentions of walking back down there, picking up their best cognac and malt whisky bottles and screaming at them “Just try to stop me!!!”, that made him decided to let us through.
 
So I suppose it is always best to insist not to pay for more expensive drinks than you ordered, when you aren’t parked in the restaurant’s car park!

D’OFFICE, Valletta

Centrally located in the section of Archbishop Street across the road from the Palace, D’Office has become a very popular lunch venue in Valletta, for office workers and shoppers alike.

It is stylishly decorated in a tasteful retro bistro style, which is very pleasing to the eye. What immediately caught mine, was the genuinely warm welcome you receive upon entrance, which was followed up with very friendly, helpful and informal service throughout.

The menu is varied and quite extensive, which in a casual diner should not be taken as a bad sign. There are also the specials of the day, which continue adding to the ample choice. We had a lovely avocado and prawn salad and a rather delicious spaghetti mainara in a tomato sauce. Both were of very satisfactory quality and also copious in size.

These were accompanied by a Chilean Cono Sur Bicicleta sauvignon blanc, which was nicely floral and crisp. It is hard to beat new world sauvignon at lunch time with a light bite. I do try and vary once in a while, but especially based on what is readily available in local establishments, this seems to be often quite unavoidable.

Unfortunately we were in a bit of a hurry, so we contented ourselves to this one dish, followed by coffees and a couple of naughties.

D’Office is an overall excellent choice for an informal and unceremonious lunch, especially if they keep up their truly warm hospitality.

And if god forbid you lose both wifi and your data connection, you can always pop into the loo and type a letter…

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AN IDIOT’S GUIDE TO SERVING WINE

(mainly aimed at restaurant serving staff)

Many are still very sadly under the impression that serving wine the right way and according to required custom, is unnecessary and bombastic. Many others don’t even know that all this exists. And the worst part of it all is that many who are totally in the dark, actually work in the catering industry!

So here goes. These are the most basic steps of serving wine in a restaurant environment. If you work in one, then take head and learn. If you are a customer, then don’t settle for anything less.

• When handing the wine list, first ask clearly who would like to order the wine and pass it on personally to that one person. With a large table which might easily order more than one type, don’t be afraid to hand out two lists to different people if so requested, they won’t eat them don’t worry

• If any wines are out of stock, then best to point it out immediately before anyone actually selects them

• If you are taking wine orders without having any idea on wines, then complain bitterly to management. You simply should not be doing this. It is inconceivable to imagine that customers will not ask you questions which they expect you to be able to answer. If however you are totally stuck and have no one to ask, then never ever lie or invent, just admit that you don’t know. The very worst thing of all is giving false information. It is always better to be unknowing than to be wrong

• If anyone orders a wine of which you only have few bottles left and less than that table might consume, then best to point it out before you open and serve the first bottle. They might wish to change their decision to remain on the same wine, rather than running out and having to change during the meal

• If ever recommending to change a wine for whatever reason, then always without fail suggest something very similar in every respect. This most definitely includes price. In this case always inform the customer of the exact price without them asking. They looked at prices for wines on your wine list, so why should they now agree to a new wine blindly?

• Always ensure that bottles are served at the right temperature. If you require some time to chill a bottle before serving, then you must inform the customer. Do not keep them waiting without letting them know

• With white wine always provide an ice bucket or a cooler, depending on what is available at your establishment. If the red wine is too warm, or is served slightly chilled in Summer, but risks warming up, then you may also ask whether a cooling device is also required for it

• When you serve the wine you start off by showing it only to the person who ordered it. This is not just show, it is done so as to ensure that nobody has misunderstood each other and that you are about to open the correct bottle. Many a time was I served the wrong wine just because the name was similar or the server was inattentive

• It is normal for the customer either to take the bottle in hand for closer examination, or to touch it to feel the temperature. If you are showing it to them it is for them to see it and if they want to see it better and read the labels, then it is a very normal thing and is simply confirming that your original gesture made sense!

• Once the customer approves of the wine, then you can proceed to open it. You should always be capable of opening a bottle totally unsupported – in the air, so to speak. Do not place it on a table or anywhere else, you should be perfectly capable of opening it without placing it anywhere, even when using a corkscrew. If you put it between your legs to open it, then you should very simply be castrated or oophorectomised on the spot. I don’t fancy anything which has been tucked away between anyone’s legs and touching their genitals, unless I really fancy them

• If you are dealing with a cork top, then never make it pop on the way out. As this is totally unnecessary, it is also considered superfluous, hence unprofessional, hence rude

• You then proceed to have the wine tasted. This is essential for a number of reasons, but certainly not to see whether it is to the person’s personal taste and liking. When you order a bottle of wine you are supposed to know what you are ordering, and if you don’t, then you should consult the serving staff, which is why you are meant to know what you are selling. So unless you misinformed the customer, they have no right to send the wine back because it is not to their own liking. You taste the wine to check if it is corked, but also to see if it is off, if there is a production problem, if it is oxidized, if it is well past its best and losing flavour, if it is musty, and finally if it is at the right temperature. So even if it is a screw-top bottle you still have to taste it, as although it cannot be corked, all the other possible defects may still be present

• So tasting the wine should always occur, no matter the case. Don’t ask who would like to taste it, it should be the person who ordered it that does. Pour a small amount in their glass for this purpose. You really needn’t pour very much however too little is not good either, as this will make it more difficult to properly look at and smell the wine

• The customer should start by first swirling the wine, then looking at it, then perhaps swirling it again, then smelling it several times, before actually tasting it. This is not showing off at all. This is how a wine should be tested and checked. You look at it because the colour, the clarity and the meniscus (edges or rim), can tell you a lot about the wine. You swirl it aerate it and to release the aromas and flavours. And you smell it because our sense of smell is much more sensitive than our sense of taste. In fact in many cases if you look at the wine well and then smell it thoroughly, you don’t even have to taste it, especially with whites which are usually much less complex than reds

• Feel free to smell the cork, but only if you know what you’re doing. Also be aware that smelling a cork will never give you even a small proportion of the information acquired from the sight, smell and taste of the wine, so don’t be surprised if you cannot smell anything amiss, while the customer can

• Wait until the taster confirms that it is ok. Do not start pouring before

• If the customer claims that the wine is off, do not argue. If your wine suppliers do not accept wine returns and replace them with no questions asked, then change suppliers immediately, as all serious ones should. If they do this already, then what on earth are your arguing for

• It can genuinely happen that the taster initially confirms that the wine is fine and that they only realise that there is something wrong with it later on, possibly even after the entire bottle has been poured out and perhaps even partially drunk. This does not make any difference. If the wine is genuinely off then it is off, so just replace it

• If more than one bootle of the same type is corked or not of a satisfactory level, then you might have been given an entire bad batch. It is best in this case to suggest to the customers to try an entirely different wine

• You start by serving the women, always! And you always serve by standing behind the client and from the right hand side, using your right hand, whether you are left or right handed. You are not flying an interstellar rocket, so learning how to do this is very easy! The only exception should be if you really physically cannot, because there is no way you can get behind them, otherwise you always have to. So once you serve all the women at the table, then you serve all the men. And at the very end you serve the person who tasted it. If however the taster was a woman, you may serve her after all the other women and before the men

• If the table has opted for more than one wine, particularly if it is a large table, then it would make a lot of sense to take one wine in each hand and as you move from person to person you ask them which one they prefer, rather than going around the table twice. It is amazing how many servers fail to do this, wasting unnecessary time and effort. Each time a customer chooses the wine in your left hand, you do not pour with that hand, but you switch bottles and always pour with the right

• Do your very best not to spill one single drop ever, no matter how many glasses you serve. Like everything else it is simply a matter of practice. Never move the glass or touch it or raise it above the table. Do not either rest the bottle on, or even touch the glass. You should be perfectly capable of serving in any position and any distance without ever spilling at all. Practice!

• Never serve huge amounts into the glass, no matter its size. As a rule of thumb try to get at least six servings from a bottle, if you are getting less, then you are pouring too much

• Big glass or small glass you might be asking? Well traditionally the larger glass used to be for the water and the smaller one for the wine. Today however the trend is being reversed and more often than not customers understandably prefer using the larger one for the wine. Naturally I am referring to table settings where both glasses are similarly shaped

• In certain establishments the first glass is waiter served and then the bottle is placed on the table for the customers to help themselves, which is fair enough, if this is the style of the place. If however you are expected to regularly top us glasses, do ensure that you do not do this too often. It is extremely annoying when the second your glass is starting to empty it is immediately topped up too frequently. It shows that you are too pushy, unjustifiably increasing consumption, and getting patrons drunk

• When emptying the last bit of the bottle, do not stand there for ages letting it drip until it is bone dry. On the contrary, traditionally you would leave a little bit in the bottle in the case of sediment and although this is not so much expected nowadays, once the bottle is just about empty turn it back up and take it away

• With each and every bottle without exception, the customer is to taste it upon its opening. The fact that you are serving the same wine has absolutely nothing to do with it. I explained above why wine is tasted, so if you have already served an abundance of bottles of the same type, there is still a chance of encountering a bad one, even if it is the tenth one of the same brand. So don’t ask, just bring an empty glass each time and provide a little bit for the taster to approve. Doing this in a fresh glass is also imperative, so as not to mix tastes. Once the wine has been tasted and approved, it is customary to remove this glass for the simple fact that the taster would otherwise soon end up with countless glasses on the table

• If the wine is being changed to a different one, not only is it inconceivable to top up and mix two different even similar wines in the same glasses, but also to use the same glasses when empty. So fetch fresh glasses each and every time a new wine is being served. If the customers themselves tell you to leave the same glasses, then it is always best to mildly insist on changing them anyway, as this will ensure more enjoyable drinking by all. If however they really make a fuss and simply don’t want to change, then this is obviously their prerogative. When serving successive bottles of the same wine, glasses are not changed

• Every time a bottle is empty go ahead and ask whether they would like another one, unless the meal is virtually over. Certainly if they have finished, or are just about to terminate their main course, then it is futile and even annoying to ask

• Traditionally if the customer places an empty bottle upside down in a bucket, then this signified that they require another one. However in today’s world many are not aware of this, and do this simply when the bottle is empty. It is therefore always prudent to ask before fetching another bottle

There is of course infinitely more to learn and do not in any way imagine that you are already approaching somellier status simply because you know the above. There is a plethora of knowledge even strictly concerning only the serving of wine, ranging from temperature, the right glasses, decanting, letting it breath, sediment and countless other issues.

So the above are simply the basics and as basics they should be known and practiced by all.

SUSHI BA, St. Julians

We had been hearing about this place for some time, so it came highly recommended. We have also been told that they serve the best sushi in Malta, which did sound a bit of a tall order.

Initially we thought of going for a takeaway, however as soon as we were putting in our order, Paul Peter Azzopardi​ and Kristina Arbočiūtė​ walked in and we all happily agreed to dine together. Unlike us they had been there many a time and even helped us to order a marvelous medley of both sushi and sashimi.

The place is run by couple Nick and his Chinese wife Donna. Being a relatively small place, Nick runs the service singlehandedly, while Donna prepares the food on her own. They were very welcoming and we chatted extensively with Nick, who genuinely did his very best to make us comfortable in every way.

We had an impressive array of very different sushis and sashimi and one just seemed better than the other. Some were rather mild in taste, while others were strong and sharply fishy. We had a big selection with a vast amount of varying, and even often, of original ingredients, which are rarely found elsewhere. There were so many of them and I was enjoying the meal so much, that I did not even try to take note of the names or to memorise them.

But in any case I think that this would have been a rather futile exercise, as all of them without exception were simply delicious. It would only be down to personal taste, if one had to attempt to list them in any form of preference.

I have absolutely no doubt, in my mind at least, that this is by far the best sushi I have tasted so far in Malta. But I will also go a step further than this. I cannot remember having eaten better sushi anywhere, and this easily includes Japan. We were on holiday in Tokyo only a few months ago and ate sushi there on three occasions. You really don’t want to eat sushi everyday and contrary to what many people think, even in Japan this is more a type of food which is eaten on occasion, and otherwise it is very atypical to the rest of Japanese cuisine.

We did enjoy our sushi in Tokyo on each of these occasions, but we really cannot say that it was outstanding in any way. Naturally we can only talk about the three sushi restaurants we sampled, so this shouldn’t be taken as a wide-sweeping statement about the overall standard of sushi in Japan.

But in any case, the quality here at Sushi Ba was on a level of its own.

We had a long discussion with Nick and we all decided that the secret most definitely laid in the rice. The rest of the ingredients were perfect too, but the main difference here was the fluffiness and the consistency of the rice. Usually with sushi the rice is all sticky and presented virtually as a solid block. Here however, although it held together on the plate, as soon as it was eaten it came apart nicely and loosely, making for such a more pleasant texture and taste.

Nick explained all the painstaking care and attention they accord to their preparation, which culminated in the washing of the rice for ten consecutive times, so as to rid it of virtually all its starch.

They really have an excellent product and yes, the very best sushi ever. It is a very informal setting, which is also fine with us, so don’t expect a posh and sophisticated ambiance. And to top it all up, the portions are very copious and their pricing totally affordable. It goes to show that quality does not always have to cost more.