IT-TMUN, Mgarr, Gozo – revisited

There are few things that can lift the spirits of two old and fading men more than being accompanied by four gorgeous creatures on an outing.

So in spite of the stormy weather and the rough seas, we all huddled up on the Gozo ferry with Paul Peter Azzopardi and myself proudly accompanied by four stunning creatures.

We were previously booked for dinner at it-Tmun a few days earlier, however everything fell through at the last minute, compelling us to cancel. So in such circumstances I always make it a point to make it up to the restaurant by rebooking on another occasion. And so it should be, especially when you cancel on the same day when the restaurant is very busy and you know that they have already turned down other tables to retain yours.

Tmun has the enormous advantage of being at Mgarr and therefore within easy walking distance from the ferry, enabling you to leave your car in Cirkewwa and walk across. This makes for a lovely overall outing with two mini cruises thrown in, unless it’s raining that is! And yes it was raining fairly heavily when we were berthing in Mgarr. But in a big stroke of luck our dear friend Julian Boffa happened to be on the same ferry with his car and agreed to run a shuttle service for us between the ferry and the restaurant against two and a half glasses of wine.

We have dined at Tmun for many many years and I have already written a full and detailed review here on this esteemed establishment. I will therefore limit this piece to the highlights of our meal and the more noteworthy aspects of our evening.

Let me start by saying that this was in the height of August and the restaurant was packed and right in the middle of their busiest season. So there very visibly some members of staff who were helpers and who in all probability were just there for a few weeks of summer work and who’s long term profession is definitely not catering.

Having said this, although service was at times a little but shabby, it was still on the acceptable side most of the time.

So as to compensate our staunchly awaiting taxi driver, we immediately went for a Chilean Cono Sur sauvignon blanc, based on a rather strong and misplaced recommendation from the head waiter. It turned out to be well past its best, being a 2013 vintage and had largely lost its supposed greenish yellow tinge to have turned dark gold in colour. Its taste too could immediately be deemed as flattish and decidedly well past its peak.

I informed the server and we then changed to a Chilean De Martino sauvignon blanc 2014 which was much better and most enjoyable.

Our starters on the whole struck a very good average, although I was by far the most unlucky one. I asked for the calamari rings and scallops which turned out to be very overcooked. I was hungry and didn’t want to disrupt the whole table by sending it back and waiting for a new one, so I ate it anyway. When Leli the owner asked us how the starters were and I informed him about mine, he simply ensured that I was provided with another one, no questions asked and naturally without charging me for it. This is what I call problem management par excellence.

All other starters were of a very high standard and one of us had a risotto which was simply of staggering heights and the very best I have tasted in many many years.

For mains there were again various very good dishes and several of us went for their famous bouillabaisse. For me it has always been very simple – Tmun makes the best bouillabaisse in the Maltese Islands and this time was no exception. If you had to ask me whether I have had even better bouillabaisse at Tmun, then I would have to say yes. But it was still delightful. Leli’s son Paul, who runs the kitchen along with his mum Jane, who either work together or take it in turns, took the trouble of coming to our table on several occasions throughout the meal, in spite of them being very busy.

Having had their bouillabaisse exactly 4.85 billion times before, I am somewhat of a self-appointed authority on it and as such I have every right on earth to pontificate about it ad nauseam. I explained to Paul that its consistency and taste was as good as ever, only that it was perhaps a tiny touch too sweet. Also, and in spite of me being anything but a big eater, I could see it every so slightly larger and containing just a couple of extra shells and fish pieces, plus a bit more of the delicious broth.

They very astutely serve their bouillabaisse either as a starter or as a main course and suffice to say that on one occasion guess what I had for both consecutive courses…. yes really, this is no joke! When taken as a starter it is very beautifully severed in a pot which is conveniently placed on your table for you to help yourself, however as a main it is served already plated. Imho if anything the opposite should be done, or even better served in a pot in both instances.

Most of us had desserts which were all of top quality and these were followed by several drinks which never made their way onto our bill, courtesy of the lovely Buttigieg family. for whom I have a lot of time and the utmost respect.

Pure and utter perfection is something that we should all aim for, knowing very well that we will never quite attain it. This was about the least impressive meal we have ever had at Tmun yet it can still be very easily classified as being of a very high standard – that is how good this restaurant is!