For those who might not be familiar with the term, umami is the fifth basic taste which was added to the previously existing ones of sweetness, sourness, bitterness and saltiness. Items that are particularly strong in this taste are monosodium glutamate (MSG) and tomatoes.

Quite a smart name for a smart establishment, which is the latest addition at Saqqajja Steps, which has become a little Mecca for good eateries.

Upon arrival we were given the choice of a table inside or out, which was nice. We had a look inside, but in spite of the stylish interior, we immediately dashed back outside, at the horrifying sound of screaming children.

So we settled down outside at a lovely table with views over much of Malta and after having repeatedly insisted that we did not desire aperitifs, we selected a bottle of Chilean Apaltagua Gran Verano sauvignon blanc as well as a Chateau Lamarsalle Saint Emilion 2011. The sauvignon was not exceptional but very acceptable, while the Saint Emilion was a luscious, soft, round and velvety treat, in spite of its relatively inexpensive price We were very obviously drinking it at the right age when it was at its peak. There were four of us there, as we were accompanied by our dear friends Ted and Carolyn from the UK, and as some wanted white and some wanted red, we simply went for one of each.

Their menu is concise. to the point and very nicely laid out. I can even say that although it is stylishly and well described, for once the food was actually better than portrayed and than expected. Many menus incite visions and promises of grandeur, only then to be followed by relatively mediocre dishes. Well here it was the opposite. The food was pretty well described in the menu, but then it also exceeded all expectations.

We were in fact regaled with one remarkable dish after the other, all of an extraordinary level. Before we started we were served very nice homemade warm and crusty buns of bread, which was accompanied by a simply delightful cepe and garlic butter, which was to die for. This was shortly followed by an equally irresistible amuse bouche in the form of fish cakes, accompanied by a sweet chili sauce and mint and avocado reductions, set on seaweed.

For starters we had the beef shin cakes with horseradish, baby chard and radish, which was lovely and crispy on the outside and beautifully cooked inside. I would just say that it missed an additional ingredient to spice it up a little, perhaps a touch of curry or something similar.

We also selected the raw langoustines which were perfect and presented in such an appealing and straightforward manner. There was an Angus beef carpaccio with mustard leaf, parmesan and balsamic caviar, which was about as good as it gets. And also fresh mussels which were tasty and very well prepared.

For our main courses we all decided on their meat board, which consisted of lamb fillet, sirloin steak and rib eye steak. Their sight alone was as impressive and splendid as the taste. It was a rather massive portion for two, which admittedly we were unable to finish and ended up taking most of it home. Both the lamb and the rib eye were spectacular both in taste and in texture and the sirloin wasn’t far off. It was served with a fantastic, mild but tasty and not overpowering pepper sauce, as well as a mushroom sauce which was not as impressive, but believe me, we could live with that.

Yet another very pleasant surprise and unfortunately quite a rare occurrence elsewhere, was that the side dishes too were delicious. The potato wedges were very moreish and the grilled Mediterranean vegetables were a compulsive eat.

But our delightful meal didn’t end there. When you are treated to such impressive fare you extend the meal for as long as you can. So we had a vanilla and orange crème brulee with ginger macaroons, a caramelized banana with dark chocolate shavings, shortbread and toffee cream and a chocolate mousse with Gran Marnier ice cream, hazelnut praline and pear and prune samosa, as well as a homemade vanilla ice cream. All were simply outstanding and the very best desserts I have had the pleasure of eating in a very long time.

So simply full marks on the food. Most of the dishes also included some additional and very original ingredients, such as various molecular reconstructions and vegetable and flower powders. There is absolutely no doubt that chef patrons Luke Piscopo and Isaac Sciberras know exactly what they are doing in their kitchen! The food arrived ever so slightly slower than one would have liked, but in view of its quality and intricacy one really has to make some concessions.

A restaurant meal is not just about the food but also about the overall experience and the outing, otherwise most of us would stay at home to eat. Although we all have our own personal yardsticks, I would probably accord 4 points to food, 4 points to service and 2 points to ambiance, on a general scale of 10 when dining out. For I believe that service is just as important as the food. If served an excellent meal in a terrible manner, I find this impossible to enjoy. If the food is mediocre but the service is excellent, then it makes the pill, or should I say the food – much easier to swallow. So for me at least, both food and service are of equal importance.

The service at Umami is entrusted in the very experienced hands of veteran Anthony Pace, who has been working in the trade for many years. He obviously knows it all and shows absolutely no reserve in displaying it. All the motions are there and the right techniques are applied. Anthony is obviously old school and was trained in a time when being somewhat pushy and over-persuasive might have been the norm. Also when constructive criticism might have been less acceptable. Even in instances when he was very obviously wrong in certain descriptions, such as insisting that the Maltese ‘silla’ with its scarlet flowers, is called hay in English and not a variety of clover, he still somehow retained that slightly condescending edge.

We would be talking amongst ourselves and he would be comfortable to butt in and join in the conversation, without being invited to do so. Each bottle of wine was first aptly served with a clean glass for tasting, but was then slightly expeditiously poured before we had a chance to approve. We also soon gave up trying to indicate who as on white and who was on red, as he happily poured both types for everyone each time. There were amusing mini arguments as we insisted to order the food and drinks we desired, and not necessarily the ones he wanted.

But what might have started with a hmm ended in a ha, as we slowly grew fonder of his quirky and somewhat haughty nature. He plays his part with perceived authority, and in the end we all decided to play his game, so as not to spoil our evening.

We also had the dubious pleasure of meeting a birthday boy by the name ofMarc Spiteri, another patron who was sitting at the next table. When our friend Ted stood up to take a photo of us, Marc himself insisted to take the photo. However he proceeded in hitting one of our bottles of wine, sending crashing to the floor. In an unexpected show of generosity, he insisted on buying us a full bottle, although much of the one he dropped had already been drunk. We look forward to bumping in to him again soon, and to him bumping into our half empty bottles of wine.

We ended this splendid meal with coffees and drinks before we asked for the bill. At €68 each it wasn’t cheap, but in the end such meals cannot come cheap. The meat board did look expensive at €55 for two, but the amount of meat on it was impressive, as intricately explained and strongly defended by Anthony, when we mentioned this to him. I did also point out that charging an additional €2 for each of the pepper and mushroom sauces might be unnecessary, however here too he had a good go back at us… I also find that many individual items were slightly overpriced, such as a standard cognac at €7. But in spite of this I cannot say that it wasn’t worth while.

As we got no joy from Anthony, we spotted one of the chef patrons who came to sit at a table just next to us. So we purposely discussed rather loudly and admittedly cheekily how the previous custom of offering patrons a drink on the house is fast disappearing. On each successive mention of this matter he perked up his head and ears, until I very humorously brought out the joke into the open with him and spoke to him directly. I confirmed with him jokingly that he was one of the chefs and complimented him on the fantastic meal, at which point I got a blank nod and he walked off back into the kitchen.

Oh well, they have definitely mastered the kitchen, perhaps in time they will also master their PR.